The Poultry’s Collection Year in Review.
Posted on January 2, 2009
Filed Under Vintage SI + CP, Stone Island
One of the best things about the forum is sharing and appreciating other’s collections. The Poultry’s year in review thread, gives a great overview of some of his best current and vintage additions in 2008, not to mention it’s a great read. If you haven’t seen it, click below to read more.
Stone Island 2008 - A Review
By The Poultry
In no particular order, here are some of my favourite pieces purchased during 2008
AW07 Short Hooded Jacket, Antiqued Reflective, Sage / Pewter, XL / L, Art No 47154F23
In my opinion this is probably the best modern reflective Stone Island have created (and yes that includes the Flannels) The fit and attention to detail is exemplary and it also doesn’t suffer with the stiff popper issue found on the Parka and Field Jacket styles.In L, the garment measures 23 inches Pit to Pit (external) 23 inches Pit to Cuff (taken along the seam from the centre of the armpit panel) When buttoned up the inner gillet measures 22 inches Pit to Pit.
Above: AW07 Short Hooded Jacket, Antiqued Reflective, Sage / Pewter, XL / L, Art No 47154F23
SS90/91 Field Jacket, Ice, M
A holy grail for many, I was lucky to finally acquire one after many years of looking. Condition is average to good and the colour change works surprisingly well. Typical construction for the period includes the mesh inner pockets and fine cord backing, item features a black CP Company care label. Old school sizing in Medium equates to a modern day size of XXL in the body but with a paltry 16.5 inch sleeve. Pit to Pit is 25.5 inches.
Above: SS90/91 Field Jacket, Ice, M
Above: SS90/91 Field Jacket, Ice, M
AW91/92 Raso Gommato, Goose Down Puffa, L
In the same style as the Goose Down Ice Puffa jackets I date this piece to 1991. There are some nice details that I’ve not seen before including circular brass vents with a fine mesh under the arms. The condition is average with minor wear to cuff and elbows and unfortunately the seller had lost the hood.
Above: AW91/92 Raso Gommato, Goose Down Puffa, L
SS87/88 Denim Field Jacket
I can’t date this for sure but the metal badge buttons and black CP care label would suggest later eighties. The condition is pretty much mint and there are some great details such as the assymetric pockets, rubberised button enforcers, lined cuffs and the red compass (seemingly a precursor to the original Stone Island Denims logo) The garment has a Pit to Pit of 23.5 inches and a Pit to Cuff of 17 inches (there is no sizing label but I would estimate this to be either a M or L)
Above: SS87/88 Denim Field Jacket
Above: SS87/88 Denim Field Jacket
AW95 U Boot, M, Art No 23154032
This piece could almost pass for BNWT, there is no wear to the rubber coating (in complete opposite to the white 23154523 I also bought that year). Strangely there is no zip to the front, only a long strip of Velcro and the hoop locked buttons. Sized in M, this features a big boy measurement of 25 inches across the chest but only 18 from Pit to Cuff, the lining is an 80 / 20 Wool / Polyester mix, typical of the period when Stone Island moved from the 100% Lambswool inners (dry clean only) to something a little more practical.
Above: AW95 U Boot, M, Art No 23154032
AW88 Raso Gommato, Double Layer, Goose Down, L
The seller claimed to have bought this piece in 1998, I’m more inclined to date it a year or two later. Surprisingly the rubber coating is in almost perfect condition with just some minor cracking around the crease of the collar. Black CP Company care label, Lampo zips and vented arm pits. Sized as a Large, the garment measures 26 inches Pit to Pit (but feels smaller due to the Goose Down gillet) and has a surprisingly generous cut in the arms of 20.5 inches pit to cuff.
Above: AW88 Raso Gommato, Double Layer, Goose Down, L
Above: AW88 Raso Gommato, Double Layer, Goose Down, L
AW88 Ice Jacket, L
This piece has seen some tough times, no doubt about it, but it was an absolute bargain and is a key piece in the history of the brand. The original seller claimed to have stored the jacket in his loft for several years, the heat and humidity could have been a contributing factor to the disintegration of the Ice coating on the polyester shell. The jacket features absolutely no labels (with no sign of any being present) and has metal badge buttons and large, compass embossed cord toggles.
The photos below were taken at roughly ten second intervals with a small electric fan heater blowing over the jacket in an otherwise freezing cold garage.
Above: AW88 Ice Jacket, L
Above: AW88 Ice Jacket, L
Above: AW88 Ice Jacket, L
AW03 Compact Jacket, L, Art No 39154N40
A campaign piece from AW 03, I’ve always loved the colour, material and styling of the jacket but the quality and fit of the main zip is a little weak and disappointing (being YKK and is also devoid of the classic Stone Island pull tag) The outer pockets features a classic vintage style of closure with the double press stud slash and the waist adjusters are a nice addition too.
Above: AW03 Compact Jacket, L, Art No 39154N40
Above: AW03 Compact Jacket, L, Art No 39154N40
SS87/88 Multipocket Marina Jacket
This is a curious piece I bought from Italy, its a shooting jacket style with eight pockets of various size to the front, the material is reverse painted denim and a large Stone Island Marina logo is stamped on both the exterior and interior of the back. It features a button through cuff and another vintage design mark, an asymmetric closure to the front beginning with three press studs and then three button toggles. Metal badge buttons and a black CP Company care label would date this piece to around 1986-88. The piece number in still intact, sewn in next to the care label, Piece No 148841
Sized as Large, the garment measures 25 inches Pit to Pit and 19 inches Pit to Cuff.
Above: SS87/88 Multipocket Marina Jacket
SS93 Marina Reflector, XL
An extremely well worn piece but nothing can detract from what must be one of the most iconic jackets Stone Island have ever produced, featuring the famed Stone Island Marina print on the rear. This particular colourway was featured in a double page advert from Arena magazine in July 1993. Like many other Shoulderpieces from that season, the jacket features mesh inner pockets and Lampo zips throughout.
The construction is very similar to Ice Jackets from that era, the base material is a lightweight polyester gauze with the reflective coating applied on top of a thin layer of bonding agent, the wear on the jacket appears in two stages, the reflective glass beads fall from the bonding agent, exposing a slightly tacky, rubber material, which in turn can crack and fall away to reveal the white polyester shell beneath. I’m led to believe that Stone Island struggled for several seasons to get the balance right in another reflective jackets I’ve owned since SS94 the bonding agent between the glass beads and the polyester shell seems to be quite different.
As a collector, the amount of wear to a piece doesn’t really bother me that much, there is something intriguing about having a piece that has gathered its own little stretch of history and has its own story to tell.
Above: SS93 Marina Reflector, XL
The One That Got Away
AW92 Goose Down Puffa, Ice, Orange, L
I was bidding on this jacket around a year ago, CR did a deal and the auction was pulled, fast forward another year and CR puts it up for sale, it takes a journey up north, re-appears for sale and then promptly ends up across the pond. Three times I missed this bugger… I WILL have one, one day.
Jacket of the Year
AW08 Shadow Range, Batavia T Teflon Flight Jacket, 49154ZZ1
The Shadow Range has split people’s opinion right down the middle, I personally don’t think it was an overwhelming success but the future looks bright and the desire to innovate is still a key tenet for the brand.
I’ve worn this particular piece more than any other over the last year and its versatility for both casual and smart wear is unsurpassed. It is surprisingly waterproof in mild showers and compared to the prices of other jackets from both SS08 and AW08 I feel it was very good value for money. Also, as the material is rather hard wearing I’ve tended to be less precious about it than I would with say a reflector or liquid silk.
Above: AW08 Shadow Range, Batavia T Teflon Flight Jacket, 49154ZZ1.
Biggest Disappointment
SS08 Hooded Antiqued Reflector, Blue, XL, 48154F23
This may ruffle some feathers but for me this has to be one of the most disappointing pieces I’ve bought in long time. After the initial bout of enthusiasm had died I become annoyed with the fit and construction, I find the arms a touch too long, the chest a touch too tight, the shoulders are unstructured and the hood too big. Compared to other reflectors such as the Harrington style from SS07 there is a definite lack of detail and a strong sense of being short changed from an RRP of £675 - the YKK zip and bonded hood peak (prone to splitting) are almost unforgivable. On a positive note the taped seam construction and rivets (around areas of stress) are nice details.
In XL the garment measures 23.5 inches Pit to Pit and 23 inches (along the seam) Pit to Cuff, sizing is very subjective with this particular style, some folks love it, others hate it, it does nothing to flatter your figure if your of a less than svelte build (myself included) as its quite long in the body and feels like it tapers in slightly.
Above: SS08 Hooded Antiqued Reflector, Blue, XL, 48154F23
Above: SS08 Hooded Antiqued Reflector, Blue, XL, 48154F23
The above two categories are liable to change once I take delivery of an AW08 Hand Painted Field Jacket…
Happy New Year!
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Thanks to The Poultry for taking the time to write and put this together. If you enjoyed this take the time to let him know here.
If you have a year in review you’d like me to post for you send me a PM.
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some fantastic pieces there mate, the ice jacket gotta to be crem de la crem!(not sure if thats spelt right)